Showing posts with label chablis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chablis. Show all posts

Thursday, 14 October 2010

Chablis and Oysters

Whilst idly googling gastroporn on the net after a hard day's work copywriting I came across a video on YouTube featuring.... myself and my sister Abigail.  My Google search was "Chablis and Oysters", nothing dirty you understand, if a little fishy.  I couldn't believe I hadn't turned this into a blogpost before so feel I should now, even though it dates from Christmas Day last year.  I do now live near Chablis, which is a long way from the sea, but as you will see, if you watch the video, there is a good reason why Chablis goes so well with oysters...

Saturday, 24 April 2010

Cod & Sauce Verte

One of the joys of living on the coast is being able to buy freshly caught fish.  At Aldeburgh in Suffolk the few fishermen who still exist possess little shacks on the beach where they sell what they have caught that morning.  

Some of them supplement their catch with fish landed at Lowestoft further up the coast but one in particular (Dean Fryer) only sells fish that he has caught from his tiny boat that same morning.  Any unsold fish at the end of the morning gets sold off to the nearby restaurants and hotels.  

At this time of year cod is the main catch and the fishermen will tell you that stocks in the North Sea are plentiful.  And as they are catching fish using lines and tiny nets their little industry is sustainable (though not terribly lucrative and certainly a tough one to work in).

The downside of buying cod caught that same morning is that it's too fresh to eat the same day.  It has little flavour and is quite watery textured.  It's firmer and more flavoursome a couple of days later.  Ironically, it's very firm to the touch when spanking fresh but on cooking goes floppy.  Oily or semi oily fish like herring and sea bass are best however eaten the day they are caught.  

The best thing to do with a whole cod is to poach it, preferably in cod stock, and serve it cold with garlic mayonnaise or herby green sauce.  In the south of France a whole fish will be laid out in the middle of the table surrounded by various cold vegetables and crudités, small bowls of garlic mayonnaise (aïoli) for dipping and halved boiled eggs.  Snails will be sprinkled over the fish and jugs of rosé wine will ensure no one goes thirsty.  The dish is called Le Grand Aïoli.  Occasionally, poached salt cod (morue) will be used instead.

Making fish stock is really easy if, like here, you have access to fish bones and heads.  Oily fish is not suitable but any white fish will do.  Turbot and Dover Sole are supposed to make the best, but cod is good too.  Poaching fish in fish stock gives the fish more depth of flavour.  And afterwards, you can reduce this stock and make a soup or a tasty risotto.  

To poach a cod you need a kettle like the one pictured here.  

Simply cover the fish with cold stock, bring back to the boil, remove from the heat, and allow to cool down in the stock.  

This is the perfect recipe for those nervous about over cooking fish.  

Cod cooked like this is delicious served with a sauce verte (green sauce or salsa verde) made from herbs, capers, garlic and anchovies.  The umami-rich anchovies help the cod taste more like cod.  Green lentils from Le Puy make a good, earthy foil. 

And to drink, something dry, crisp, fresh and mineral like the unoaked Chablis above, or Muscadet, Sancerre, rosé de Provence... For those less francophile, there are some very good vinho verde being made now in northern Portugal, or there is Rias Baixas from across the border in Spain.  From Italy, Soave would be good.

Friday, 9 October 2009

A Great Match... chablis & oysters


These wild oysters gathered minutes before have an intensely briney, almost bitter twang to them. Never have oysters needed a squeeze of lemon or spoonful of shallot vinegar less than these. However, they are thirsty work and the wine quenches that thirst and brings out the mineral character of the mollusc. And the mollusc reciprocates and accentuates the mineral, stoney, almost 'oystery' character of the wine; after all, the soil in Chablis is made up of oyster shells. But choose your Chablis carefully as some Grand Cru are aged (and even fermented) in oak and should be treated like top Côte d'Or whites to go with turbot, halibut, Dover sole etc.

A Couple of Old Scrubbers... Jean-Marc Brocard & I cleaning oysters


The older scrubber is Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis who makes wines which go so well with those being scrubbed. Incidentally, the water is spotlessly clear and clean; the orange tinge comes from the peat over which this burn flows on the Isle of Mull. The oysters were gathered at low tide 100 yards away and were subsequently eaten at high tide 30 yards away.

Thursday, 24 September 2009

Native wild oysters gathered at low tide, Isle of Mull


These oysters were picked at low tide off the coast of the Isle of Mull in the inner Hebrides.
They went down a treat with a magnum of chilled Chablis 1er cru 1998 from Jean-Marc Brocard.

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